The Vanguard Way – our guide to this route
We've written about many walking routes throughout the UK, but the Vanguard Way is definitely one of our favourites. At 66 miles long, this route is not too short and not too long, so is easily completed in a week or less, making it quite a casual walking route compared to some of the others that we've published guides about previously. This route takes you through some of the prettiest parts of Sussex as well as Kent and Surrey, and is an excellent route to follow to see some of the best countryside scenery that England has to offer. We wanted to publish a guide for anyone hoping to follow this route in 2023, with a breakdown of what to see and do along the route, let's get into it:
Why is it called the Vanguard Way?
The Vanguard Way is named after the Vanguards Rambling Club, the members of which created the route to celebrate their 15th anniversary. The route was officially opened in 1981.
Where is the Vanguard Way?
The Vanguard Way typically starts in Croydon and goes South to Newhaven. The route takes you through the counties of Surrey, Kent, and East Sussex.
What sections are there?
We should start by saying that there is definitely not a "right" way of doing this route, and you can go from North to South or the opposite way if you like, but typically it is split into the 10 following sections in this order:
Croydon to Chelsham Common
Chelsham Common to Limpsfield Chart
Limpsfield Chart to Edenbridge
Edenbridge to Forest Row
Forest Row to Poundgate
Poundgate to Blackboys
Blackboys to Golden Cross
Golden Cross to Berwick Station
Berwick Station to Exceat Bridge
Exceat Bridge to Newhaven
If you're intent on getting your head down and not stopping too frequently, you might be able to complete this route in 2 days. However, we think you should allow for 3 or even 4 days, particularly if you plan to stop at the points of interest we have outlined below.
What is there to see and do as you go along The Vanguard Way?
There is quite a lot to see along this route, and unless you've set aside a good amount of time you won't have time to stop at every interesting point along the route. However, we've picked a few things within each section that we think are really worth seeing if you have the time, let's break it down section by section:
Croydon to Chelsham Common
The typical starting point for the Vanguard Way is East Croydon Station. It can feel a little odd starting from this point, but as you move along the route you very quickly find yourself surrounded by parkland, woodland, and open country. The first part of the route which is especially noteworthy is the section which takes you through Selsdon Wood Nature Reserve - just before Farleigh, this nature reserve is wonderful to explore and full of interesting things to see, including wildflowers and wildlife. The church of St. Mary the Virgin at Farleigh is also worth a look if you have the time. It's only a couple of miles from here to Chelsham Common.
Chelsham Common to Limpsfield Chart
As you move away from Chelsham Common, you'll encounter the highest part of the Vanguard Way as you go through the North Downs. Make sure to take a look at the very interesting Nore Hill Pinnacle, which is recognised as a Regionally Important Geological Site. Our last recommended stop before you reach Limpsfield Chart would be Titsey Place, an impressive Tudor manor house with stunning gardens that are great to explore.
Limpsfield Chart to Edenbridge
There isn't too much to see in the immediate vicinity of this section of the Vanguard Way, and because it's one of the longer and flatter sections of the route, it's a good chance to get your hand and get some miles under your belt.
Coldrum Stones Long Barrow
However, if you're happy to head around 20 miles to the East of the route, you should take time to visit the amazing Coldrum Stones Long Barrow. This formation is what is known as a chambered long barrow, and it's located near the village of Trottiscliffe. Amazingly, it is estimated that it was constructed in the fourth millennium BCE, and despite being ruinous (as you'd expect), this is easily the least-damaged megalithic long barrow in Kent, although Addington Long Barrow and Chestnuts Long Barrow are both still impressive to visit. A long barrow is a type of burial monument which was very common during the Middle Neolithic, and it's quite amazing to see it up close. There are also information panels at the long barrow where you can learn about the history of it and the archaeologists who discovered it. Visit this location on May Day and you might spot the Hartley Morris Men as they start their dance season. You can learn more about this formation here:
Edenbridge to Forest Row
About halfway along this section, you'll reach Dry Hill Fort, an Iron Age hillfort which is well worth a look. There isn't too much to see, but knowing that it dates from the Iron Age makes for quite a special visit. Forest Row is one of the few large settlements along the Vanguard Way, and there is quite a bit to see and do here. It's a great place for a stayover and for a bite to eat.
Forest Row to Poundgate
Hopefully, you'll be well stocked up as you leave Forest Row, and the first area you'll venture into is the Ashdown Forest. This forest is actually more of a moorland than a forest, but there is still some tricky terrain to navigate. The forest is part of the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and is quite beautiful to walk through. It's also the inspiration for The Hundred Acre Wood in the Winnie the Pooh stories, and you'll find plenty of references to the bear as you move through the forest.
Poundgate to Blackboys
This is another section which you might like to plan a stop during, as both Buxted and Blackboys have a number of excellent hotels and places to grab a bite to eat. This is also where the Vanguard Way starts to feel a bit wilder and the route starts to veer off the beaten path a little bit, with much of the route now consisting of bridleways through fields. In terms of points of interest that you should keep an eye out for in this section, the Holy Trinity High Hurstwood Church about 2 miles from Poundgate is a very pretty building in a peaceful location.
Blackboys to Golden Cross
It's about 14 miles from Blackboys to Golden Cross, and there are a few things to see within this section that you might consider stopping for. Chiddingly is a tiny village but the church here is lovely and usually open to explore. Also in the village, you'll find Farleys House & Gallery, an interesting art gallery with amazing gardens to wander around.
Golden Cross to Berwick Station
This is quite a short section of the Vanguard Way, but as you approach Berwick Station you'll find the Arlington Reserve which is a real highlight of the route. If you've got your binoculars with you then you'll spot a variety of birds here, plus the kiosk does a great coffee and bacon roll.
Berwick Station to Exceat Bridge
You're approaching the end of the Vanguard Way now, and in this section, you'll find quite a few towns and villages which you might be tempted to stop in for a while. Alfriston is home to The Cathedral of the Downs, a Grade I listed church which was built in the 14th century. You've also got a number of pubs and tea-rooms here. Litlington is home to The White Horse, which is carved into the side of Hindover Hill. As the Vanguard Way enters Alfriston, this also marks the start of the Cuckmere Valley, a beautiful National Trust-owned area with amazing views of the Cuckmere River.
As you approach Exceat Bridge, the route will take you to Friston Forest, which is beautiful and very well-maintained. As you approach Exceat Bridge, the amazing views of the Cuckmere River and the English Channel come into view.
Exceat Bridge to Newhaven
The last stretch of the Vanguard Way is for enjoying - stop for ice cream at the beach in Seaford, explore the lost village of Tide Mills, and stop off at the excellent Newhaven Fort, before heading all the way to Newhaven. The final stop!
What should you be aware of before heading along the Vanguard Way?
This is a walking route, and because it'll take a few days to complete, you'll need to plan your accommodation and meals beforehand. Definitely take some food with you and even an emergency tent in case you get caught short somewhere. We've written previously about car roof tents which are useful if you've got a car travelling with you. Let all of the hotels and B&BS you've booked know that you're on the Vanguard Way - they'll be familiar with the route and will be expecting you to turn up at a certain time, so if you don't turn up they'll contact the emergency services.
Hopefully, this guide has inspired you to tackle this epic route. As we mentioned, we've also got guides about other routes like the Hadrian's Cycleway, the Borders Abbey Way and the Southern Upland Way.
Finn H
Finn is the editor of You Well and has been writing about travel, health, and more for over 10 years.