Travel

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path – our guide to this 186 mile walking route

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We've written about lots of walking routes throughout the UK, with many of them being inland and taking you through rolling countryside scenery. That can be wonderful and very enjoyable, but we have to admit that there is nothing quite like a coastal walking route. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is about as epic as coastal walking routes can get - at 186 miles in length, it will probably take you weeks to complete rather than days, and you'll need to be up for a challenge. But we really think this is a special route and takes in some of the best scenery that you'll find anywhere in the UK. We wanted to publish a guide about this route for anyone hoping to tackle it in 2023, let's get into it:

Where is the Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is almost entirely within the area of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in southwest Wales. Like many of the other walking routes that we've written about, you can start at either end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, although we feel that it is better to start in St Dogmaels.
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What sections are there?

Typically the route is split into the 15 following sections in this order:

 

ST DOGMAELS TO NEWPORT - 16 miles

NEWPORT TO FISHGUARD 12 miles

FISHGUARD TO PWLL DERI - 9 miles

PWLL DERI TO PORTHGAIN - 12 miles

PORTHGAIN TO WHITESANDS - 10 miles

WHITESANDS TO SOLVA - 13 miles

SOLVA TO BROAD HAVEN - 12 miles

 

BROAD HAVEN TO MARTIN'S HAVEN -11 miles

MARTIN'S HAVEN TO DALE - 10 miles

DALE TO NEYLAND - 16 Miles

NEYLAND TO ANGLE - 16 Miles

ANGLE TO FRESHWATER WEST - 10 miles

FRESHWATER WEST TO BROAD HAVEN SOUTH- 10 miles

BROAD HAVEN SOUTH TO SKRINKLE HAVEN - 11 miles

SKRINKLE HAVEN TO AMROTH - 14 miles

 

If you're intent on getting your head down and not stopping too frequently, you might be able to complete this route in less than 10 days. However, we think you should allow for as much as 2 weeks, giving you plenty of time to stop for a rest and to admire your surroundings.

What is there to see and do as you go along The Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

This is a long walking route, and if you really wanted to you could make hundreds of stops at interesting points along the route. In an effort to complete the path in a timely fashion but to still leave time to check out some of the more interesting things along the way, we've highlighted things in each section that you might want to stop for. Let's take a look:

St Dogmaels to Newport

The first section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is generally considered to be the most challenging, as it takes you up some steep hills for almost 16 miles. The Coast Path starts at the slipway near the Ferry Inn in St Dogmaels. Poppit Sands Beach about a mile into the route is worth a stop, as well as the Teifi Viewpoint about 4 miles into the route for great views across to Cardigan Island. Newport is a lovely little town and once you reach it, you'll find a variety of pubs, hotels, and shops.
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Newport to Fishguard

You'll be pleased to hear that this section is both shorter and flatter than the first section, but it's worth keeping in mind that it still has some steep sections. This includes the 142m peak of Pen Dinas, which is where you'll find the very impressive Wellington Monument. The best view of Needle Rock is about halfway along this section and it's a great place to stop for the chance to spot seabirds like razorbills and guillemots, as this is where they breed.

Fishguard to Pwll Deri

At under 10 miles, this section isn't too strenuous in terms of length but mostly consists of cliffs ranging from 30 to 70m in height, so there is some steep walking. Pen Anglas headland is a very interesting volcanic rock formation similar to Giant's Causeway, and you'll find it about 4 miles into this section. Right towards the end of the section, you can stop at the Dinas Fawr Iron Age Fort to see if you can spot any seal pups, as they're often seen here (especially during the Autumn period).
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Pwll Deri to Porthgain

The path along this section feels particularly steep, and we'd recommend keeping your wits about you. There are quite a few things to see along this section, the first being the Garn Fawr Iron Age hill fort, which you can enjoy great views from if you walk to the top. Towards the end of the route you'll find Carreg Sampson, a 5000 year old Neolithic  burial chamber which almost looks like an alien creature made from stone.
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Porthgain to Whitesands

Parts of this section can be quite rugged, so this is where ensuring that you have good footwear is important. The only really steep part of this section is the descent to Whitesands. Saint David's Head marks the divide between the Irish Sea and the Celtic Sea and is also one of the sunniest parts of Wales. It's not uncommon to spot peregrine falcons, gannets, and dolphins in this area.

Whitesands to Solva

If you're looking for another place to stop, St Davids is just a short distance away from this section of the route and is full of shops, hotels, and places to eat (read our guide about the city here). Otherwise, you could wait until you reach the end of the section and plan a stop in Solva. The section itself is mostly gentle gradients apart from some hills before Porth Clais. Early in this section, take time to appreciate the views across to Ramsey Island.
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Solva to Broad Haven

This section is fairly straightforward apart from the 4 very steep hills after Newgale, which can be testing. Early in this section you'll get amazing views across to Ramsey, Newgale, and across St Brides Bay. Porthmynawyd Beach is a cove which is usually a great place to take a dip provided that the tide is not fully in. Keep an eye out for the very interesting ‘Teletubby House' near Nolton Haven, which can be looked down on from the path.
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Broad Haven to Martin's Haven

This section takes you along low red sandstone cliffs and is really not too strenuous at all. About 300 metres west of Mill Haven you'll find the 'rock with the hole' sculpture which is quite interesting, and this is also a great section to keep an eye out for wildflowers such as Thrift (Sea Pinks) and yellow algae.
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Martin's Haven to Dale

This section is another chance for a stop as it takes you past both Marloes and Dale, which have plenty of shops and accommodation options. The Deer Park at the end of the Marloes Peninsula doesn't contain any deer but does offer amazing views across the sea and you can usually find Welsh mountain ponies here too. On St Ann's Head, you can see the amazing rocky inlet known as Cobbler's Hole.
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Dale to Neyland

At 16 miles in length, this is one of the longest sections of the route and you'll need to be well-prepared to tackle it. Having said that, the gradient is fairly even along this section and there aren't too many steep sections. A few of the beaches along the section such as Kilroom Beach and Sandy Haven are worth a stop, but there isn't too much else to stop for.

Neyland to Angle

Unlike the previous section, there is lots to see as you walk from Neyland to Angle - the ‘Martello’ Gun Tower and The Defensible Barracks at Pembroke Dock are both very interesting, as is Pembroke Town if you have the time to stay for a while. The castle in the town is especially interesting. As you get close in on Angle you'll find Fort Popton and Battery, a Victorian Fort.
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Angle to Freshwater West

After all the excitement and relative ease of the previous section, the section between Angle and Freshwater West is much more difficult and remote. There are no amenities in this section, nor any mobile coverage for most of it, so stocking up while you're in Pembroke is probably a good idea. As you walk from Angle, you'll soon spot the rocky islet of Thorne Island and the fort that sits on top of it. The area near to Freshwater West is a good place to keep an eye out for the rare chough bird.
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Freshwater West to Broad Haven South

This section is generally considered to be the flattest part of the path, but the route itself can vary as part of the area is often used as a firing range. This will always be well signposted on the day. This section is also well-known for taking you past Stack Rocks & The Green Bridge of Wales, a very famous rock formation which is stunning to look at and almost looks like a work of art.
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Broad Haven South to Sprinkle Haven

This section has some steep sections, particularly in the 3rd and 4th mile, but you've got lots of amenities and things to see along the way which makes it bearable. Barafundle beach is found in this section, and is worth a stop as it is considered to be one of the best beaches in the world. Stackpole Head is a great stop for birdwatchers as this is where kittiwakes and razorbills breed (puffins can also be spotted here).
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Sprinkle Haven to Amroth

The last section of the path can also often be the busiest section, as the surrounding towns such as Tenby attract a lot of tourists. The views of Caldey Island from the path are among the best that you'll enjoy at any point on this route, and you can even take a boat out to the island if you have the time.
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What should you be aware of before heading along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

The main thing you have to be aware of before heading on this route is that the route is often changing due to natural causes like cliff erosion, and at certain points of the route, you really have to have your wits about you. There are also sections of the route which don't have any mobile coverage or any amenities, so you should be prepared for the worst. Before setting off on the path, make sure to let people know that you're heading on the route and if you've booked any accommodation along the route, let them know that you're walking too. Keep plenty of food and water with you, and a sturdy pair of boots is a must. Here are some useful numbers to keep also:

 

Milford Haven Coastguard - 01646 690909
Tenby Coastguard - 01834 844775
RNLI St Davids - 01437 720215
Hopefully, this guide has inspired you to tackle this epic route. As we mentioned, we've also got guides about other walking and cycling routes like the Hadrian's Cycleway, the Borders Abbey Way, and the Southern Upland Way in Scotland. If you want more Welsh guides, we have a page about underrated Welsh towns and villages, and the Taste Trai.

Finn is the editor of You Well and has been writing about travel, health, and more for over 10 years.

One Comment

  • Ceti Perkins

    This digital version of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is an extremely useful. It clearly displays the interesting landmarks and images of each of the 15 sections along the route from St. Dogmaels to Amroth.
    It can be used in conjunction with the leaflet formats:
    “Take the Coast Path Challenge – The Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail certificate scheme” (detailing 28 Sections), and
    “Discover the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park – the UK’s only truly coastal National Park”.

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